Heathrow Airport (LHR) (PHONE: 0870/000-0123) is 15 miles west of London. Most flights from the United States go to Heathrow, which is the busiest and is divided into four terminals, with Terminals 3 and 4 handling transatlantic flights (British Airways uses Terminal 4).

Gatwick Airport (LGW) (PHONE: 01293/535353) is 27 miles south of the capital. London's second gateway, it has grown from a European airport into an airport that serves 21 scheduled U.S. destinations.

Stansted Airport (STN) (LGW, PHONE: 0870/000-0303) is a state-of-the-art airport 35 miles east of the city. It handles mainly European and domestic traffic, although there is also scheduled service from New York. The cost of hotels and car rentals varies little between Heathrow and Gatwick.

Flying time to London is about 6½ hours from New York, 7½ hours from Chicago, 11 hours from San Francisco, and 21½ hours from Sydney.

Carriers

British Airways is the national flag carrier and offers mostly nonstop flights from 18 U.S. cities to Heathrow and Gatwick airports, along with flights to Manchester, Birmingham, and Glasgow. As the leading British carrier, it has a vast program of discount airfare-hotel packages.

American Airlines (PHONE: 800/433-7300; 020/8572-5555 in London) to Heathrow, Gatwick.

British Airways (PHONE: 800/247-9297; 0845/7222-1111 in London) to Heathrow, Gatwick.

Continental (PHONE: 800/231-0856; 0800/776464 in London) to Gatwick.

Delta (PHONE: 800/241-4141; 0800/414767 in London) to Gatwick.

Northwest Airlines (PHONE: 800/447-4747; 0870/507-4074 in London) to Gatwick.

United (PHONE: 800/241-6522; 0845/844-4777 in London) to Heathrow.

TWA (PHONE: 800/892-4141; 0345/333333 in London) to Gatwick.

Virgin Atlantic (PHONE: 800/862-8621; 01293/747747 in London) to Heathrow, Gatwick.

Transfers Between the Airport and Town

London has excellent bus and train connections between its airports and downtown. If you're arriving at Heathrow, you can pick up a map and fare schedule at a London Transport (LT) Information Centre (in Terminals 1 and 2). Train service is direct and there are multistop train routes; the downside to this mode of transport is having to move around on escalators and connecting subways with luggage. Airport link buses may ease the luggage factor and drop you closer to central hotels, but they are subject to London traffic, which can be horrendous. Taxis can be more convenient, but beware that prices can go through the roof. Airport Travel Line (PHONE: 0870/574-7777) has transfer information and takes advance booking for transfers between airports and into London.

By Bus

From Heathrow: Airbus A2 (PHONE: 0870/574-7777) takes one hour and costs £7 one-way and £10 round-trip. It leaves for King's Cross and Euston, with stops at Marble Arch and Russell Square, every 30 minutes 6 AM-9:30 PM, but there are around 14 stops along the route, so it can be tedious.

For the same price, National Express (PHONE: 0870/580-8080) buses leave every 30 minutes to Victoria Coach Station direct from 5:40 AM-9:30 PM.

From Gatwick: You can make the 90-minute journey on Jetlink 777 (PHONE: 0870/574-7777) from Gatwick South Terminal Coach Station to Victoria Coach Station (hourly, 4:15 AM-9:15 PM, £7 one-way, £10 round-trip), with stops at Marble Arch, Hyde Park Corner, Baker Street, Finchley Road, and Hendon Central.

From Stansted: Hourly bus service on Jetlink 777 (12:30 AM-11:30 PM) to Victoria Coach Station costs £8 one-way, £10 round-trip and takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes.

By Taxi

From Heathrow and Gatwick: Taxis can get caught in traffic; the trip from Heathrow, for example, can take more than an hour and costs £30-£40. From Gatwick, the taxi fare is at least £50. Add a tip of 10 to 15% to the basic fare.

By Train

From Heathrow: The cheap, direct route into London is via the Piccadilly line of the Underground (London's extensive subway system, or "tube"). Trains run every four to eight minutes from all four terminals from early morning until just before midnight; the 50-minute trip costs £3.50 one-way and connects with other central tube lines. Heathrow Express (PHONE: 0845/600-1515) provides more comfort and speeds into London Paddington in 15 minutes, but is more expensive. Standard one-way tickets cost £12 (£22 round-trip) and £20 for first class (more space and TV screens). Service is daily, from 5:10 AM to 11:40 PM, with departures every 15 minutes.

From Gatwick: Fast, nonstop Gatwick Express (PHONE: 0870/530-1530) leaves for Victoria Station every 15 minutes 5:20 AM-12 AM, then hourly 1:35 AM-5:20 AM. The 30-minute trip costs £10.20 one-way, £20.40 round-trip. A frequent local train also runs all night.

From Stansted: The Stansted Skytrain (PHONE: 0845/748-4950) to Liverpool Street Station runs every half hour and costs £12 one-way, £22 round-trip.

Services depart mainly from Victoria Coach Station (Buckingham Palace Rd., SW1), a well-signposted short walk behind Victoria mainline rail station. The departures and main information point is situated on the corner of Buckingham Palace Road, while the arrivals point is opposite at Elizabeth Bridge. It's wise to arrive at least 30 minutes before departure so as to locate the correct exit gate (it's an extremely busy place at peak holiday and weekends). Smoking is not permitted on board.

Green Line (PHONE: 020/8668-7261) serves the counties surrounding London, as well as airports. Bus stops (there is no garage) are on Buckingham Palace Road, between Victoria mainline station and Victoria Coach Station.

Tickets can be bought from the Victoria, Heathrow, or Gatwick coach stations by phone with a credit card, via the National Express Web Site, or from travel agencies. Apex tickets save money on standard fares, and traveling midweek is cheaper than on weekends and during holiday periods.

Tourist Trail Passes, sold by British Travel International (PHONE: 540/298-1395), make great savings if you plan to tour Britain, and they can be bought in advance. Prices run from £49 for two days of unlimited travel to £187 for 14 days of unlimited travel. The Discount Coachcard for students costs £8 and qualifies you for 20 to 30% off many standard fares over a one-year period.

Some trains have refreshment carriages, called buffet cars. Smoking is forbidden in rail carriages. Some trains have first-class and reserved seats (for which there is a small charge, depending on the rail company). Check with National Rail Enquiries for details.

Delays are often material for national joking. National Rail Enquiries provides an up-to-date state-of-the-railways schedule. Rail travel is expensive: for instance, a round-trip ticket to Bath can cost around £60 per person at peak times. The fee reduces to around £30 at other times, so it's best to travel before or after the frantic business commuter rush (before 4:30 PM and after 9:30 AM). Credit cards are accepted for train fares paid both in person and by phone.

BritRail Travel (in the U.S., PHONE: 800/677-8585).

Eurostar (PHONE: 0990/186186).

National Rail Enquiries (PHONE: 0845/748-4950 or 0161/236-3522; outside the U.K. PHONE: 0845/748-4950 or 0161/236-3522).

Rail Europe (PHONE: 0870/584-8848).

Banks & Offices

Banks are open weekdays 9:30-4:30; offices, 9:30-5:30.

Gas Stations

Most gas stations in central London are open seven days, 24 hours. As you get farther out of town, and off major roads, hours vary considerably depending on the gas company, but are usually 8 AM-8 PM.

Museums & Sights

The major national museums and galleries are open daily, with shorter hours on weekends than weekdays. But there is a trend towards longer hours, such as one late-night opening a week.

Pharmacies

Pharmacies are called chemists and are open, for the most part, Monday-Saturday 9:30 AM-5:30 PM. The leading chain drugstore, Boots, is open until 6 PM (the Oxford Street and Piccadilly Circus branches are also open Sunday and until 8 PM Thursday).

Shops

Shops and offices in central London tend to keep longer hours than those in the surrounding districts. Usual business hours are Monday-Saturday 9 AM-5:30 PM. In the main shopping streets of Oxford Street, Kensington High Street, and Knightsbridge, hours are 9:30 AM-6 PM, with late-night opening in Oxford Street on Thursday until 7:30-8 PM, and in the latter areas, on Wednesday. Many small general stores and newsagents stay open on Sunday; some chain and fashion stores in the tourist areas of Oxford Street and Piccadilly (and out-of-town shopping malls) also remain open.

There are two levels of duty-free allowance for entering Britain: one for goods bought outside the European Union (E.U.) and the other for goods bought within the E.U. (Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, the Irish Republic, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, and Sweden).

Of goods bought outside the E.U. you may import duty-free: 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco; 2 liters of table wine and, in addition, (a) 1 liter of alcohol over 22% by volume (most spirits), (b) 2 liters of alcohol under 22% by volume (fortified or sparkling wine or liqueurs), or (c) 2 more liters of table wine; 60 milliliters of perfume; ¼ liter (250 ml) of toilet water; and other goods up to a value of £145, but not more than 50 liters of beer or 25 cigarette lighters.

Of goods bought within the E.U., you should not exceed (unless you can prove they are for personal use): 800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars, and 1 kilogram of tobacco, plus 10 liters of spirits, 20 liters of fortified wine, 90 liters of wine, and 110 liters of beer.

No animals or pets of any kind can be brought in without a lengthy quarantine. The penalties are severe and are strictly enforced. Similarly, fresh meats, plants and vegetables, controlled drugs, and firearms and ammunition may not be brought into the United Kingdom.

For more information, contact the HM Customs and Excise (Customer Helpline, PHONE: 0345/442236).

If your appliances are dual-voltage, you'll need only an adapter. Don't use 110-volt outlets marked For Shavers Only for high-wattage appliances such as blow-dryers. Most laptops operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts and so require only an adapter. For converters, adapters, and advice, contact the British Airways Travel Shop.

Australia House (Strand, WC2, PHONE: 020/7379-4334).

Canada

MacDonald House (1 Grosvenor Sq., W1, PHONE: 020/7258-6600).

New Zealand

New Zealand House (80 Haymarket, SW1, PHONE: 020/7930-8422).

United States

U.S. Embassy (24 Grosvenor Sq., W1, PHONE: 020/7499-9000); for passports, go to the U.S. Passport Unit (55 Upper Brook St., W1, PHONE: 020/7499-9000).

If you need a doctor or dentist, contact one of these organizations:

Dental Emergency Care Service (PHONE: 020/7955-2186).

Doctor's Call (PHONE: 020/8900-1000).

Eastman Dental Hospital (256 Gray's Inn Rd., WC1, PHONE: 020/7915-1000).

Medical Express (117A Harley St., W1, PHONE: 020/7499-1991).

Bliss the Chemist (5 Marble Arch, W1, PHONE: 020/7723-6116) keeps late-night hours.

The general procedure for a car breakdown is the following: position the red hazard triangle (which should be in the trunk of the car) a few paces away from the rear of the car. Leave the hazard warning lights on. If you are on a highway (motorway), emergency roadside telephone booths are positioned at intervals within walking distance. Contact the car rental company, or an auto club. The main automobile help groups in the United Kingdom are the Automobile Association (A.A.) and the Royal Automobile Club (R.A.C.) If you are a member of the American Automobile Association (A.A.A.) check your membership details before you depart for Britain as, under a reciprocal agreement, roadside assistance in the United Kingdom should cost you nothing. You can join and receive roadside assistance from the A.A. on the spot, but the charge is higher - around £75 - than a simple membership fee.

Hospital Emergency Rooms

National Health Service hospitals give free, 24-hour treatment in Accident and Emergency sections, where delays can be an hour or more. Charing Cross Hospital (Fulham Palace Rd., W6, PHONE: 020/8846-1234).

Royal Free Hospital (Pond St., Hampstead NW3, PHONE: 020/7794-0500).

St. Thomas' Hospital (Lambeth Palace Rd., SE1, PHONE: 020/7928-9292).

University College Hospital (Grafton Way, WC1, PHONE: 020/7387-9300).

In business, punctuality is of prime importance, so if you anticipate a late arrival, call ahead. For dinners, it is not assumed that spouses will attend unless pre-arranged, and if you proffered the invitation it is usually assumed that you will pick up the tab. If you are the visitor, however, it's good form for the host to do the taking. Alternatively, play it safe and offer to split the check.

Guided sightseeing tours from the top of a double-decker bus, which are open-topped in summer, are a good introduction to the city, as they cover all the main central sights. There is a choice of companies, each providing daily tours departing (between 8:30 and 9 AM) from central points. You may board or alight at any of the numerous stops to view the sights, and re-board on the next bus. Tickets are bought from the driver and are good all day. Prices vary according to the type of tour, although £12 is the benchmark.

Big Bus Company (PHONE: 020/8944-7810).

Black Taxi Tour of London (PHONE: 020/7289-4371).

Evan Evans (PHONE: 020/8332-2222).

Frames Rickards (PHONE: 020/7837-3111).

London Bicycle Tour (PHONE: 020/7928-6838).

London Pride (PHONE: 020/7520-2050).

Original London Sightseeing Tour (PHONE: 020/8877-1722).

By Canal

The tranquil side of London is to be found on narrow boats that cruise London's two canals, the Grand Union and Regent's Canal; most vessels operate on the latter, which runs between Little Venice in the west (nearest tube: Warwick Avenue on the Bakerloo Line) and Camden Lock (about 200 yards north of Camden Town tube station). Fares are about £5 for 1½-hour cruises.

Canal Cruises (PHONE: 020/7485-4433).

Jason's Trip (PHONE: 020/7286-3428).

London Waterbus Company (PHONE: 020/7482-2660).

On Foot

One of the best ways to get to know London is on foot, and there are many guided and themed walking tours from which to choose. If you wish to tailor your own tour, you might consider hiring a Blue Badge accredited guide.

Blue Badge (PHONE: 020/7495-5504).

Citisights (PHONE: 020/8806-4325).

Historical Walks (PHONE: 020/8668-4019).

Jack the Ripper Mystery Walks (PHONE: 020/8558-9446).

Original London Walks (PHONE: 020/7624-3978).

By River

All year round, but more frequently from April to October, boats cruise the Thames, offering a different view of the London skyline. Most leave from Westminster Pier, Charing Cross Pier, and Tower Pier. Downstream routes go to the Tower of London, Greenwich, and the Thames Barrier via Canary Wharf. Upstream destinations include Kew, Richmond, and Hampton Court (mainly in summer). Most of the launches seat between 100 and 250 passengers, have a public-address system, and provide a running commentary on passing points of interest. Depending upon the destination, river trips may last from one to four hours.

A Sail and Rail ticket combines the modern wonders of Canary Wharf by Docklands Light Railway with a trip on the river. Tickets are available year-round from Westminster Pier or DLR stations; ticket holders also get discounted tickets to the London Aquarium in Westminster and the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich.

Details on all river cruise operators are available from London River Services.

Catamaran Cruisers ( PHONE: 020/7839-3572).

London River Services (PHONE: 020/7941-2400).

Sail and Rail (PHONE: 020/7363-9700).

Thames Cruises (PHONE: 020/7930-3373).

Westminster Passenger Boat Services (PHONE: 020/7930-4097).

In spring 2001, Great Britain was hit by another crisis, foot-and-mouth disease, which affects animals. Although it had a catastrophic effect on the British economy - animals, even those suspected of being infected, were slaughtered immediately to control mass infection - the disease is very rare in humans and is harmless to them. Some tourist sights and attractions in the countryside were closed to limit the spread of the disease by humans; however, sights and attractions in London were not affected.

Post Offices 17 Euston Rd., NW1.

125-131 Westminster Bridge Rd., SW1.

110 Victoria St., SW1.

15 Broadwick St., W1. 54 Great Portland St., W1.

43 Seymour St., Marble Arch, W1.

The Science Museum, Exhibition Rd., SW7.

24 William IV St., Trafalgar Sq., WC2.

Overnight services are available from:

DHL (PHONE: 0845/710-0300).

Federal Express (PHONE: 0800/123800).

Parcelforce (PHONE: 0800/224466).

Airmail letters up to 10 grams to North America, Australia, and New Zealand cost 45p; postcards, 40p. Letters within Britain are 27p for first-class, 19p for second-class (these rates are subject to change).

If you're uncertain where you'll be staying, you can have mail sent to you at the London Main Post Office (24-28 William IV St., WC2N 4DL), c/o Poste Restante. The post office will hold international mail for one month.

You can also collect letters at American Express (6 Haymarket, SW1Y 4BS, PHONE: 020/7930-4411).

Reduced fees - generally referred to as "concessions" throughout Great Britain - are usually available for children, students, and senior citizens.

ATMs

Credit cards or debit cards (also known as check cards) will get you cash advances at ATMs worldwide if your card is properly programmed with your personal identification number. For use in London, your PIN must have no more than four digits.

Currency

The units of currency in Great Britain are the pound sterling (£) and pence (p): £50, £20, £10, and £5 bills (called notes); £2, £1 (100p), 50p, 20p, 10p, 5p, 2p, and 1p coins.

Taxes

An airport departure tax of £20 (£10 for within United Kingdom and other EU countries) per person is payable and may be subject to more government tax increases, although it is included in the price of your ticket.

The British sales tax (VAT, Value Added Tax) is 17½%. The tax is almost always included in quoted prices in shops, hotels, and restaurants.

Most travelers can get a VAT refund by either the Retail Export or the more cumbersome Direct Export method. Many large stores provide these services, but only if you request them; they will handle the paperwork. For the Retail Export method, you must ask the store for Form VAT 407 (you must have identification - passports are best), to be given to customs at your last port of departure. (Lines at major airports can be long, so allow plenty of time.) The refund will be forwarded to you in about eight weeks, minus a small service charge, either in the form of a credit to your charge card or as a British check, which American banks usually charge you to convert. With the Direct Export method, the goods go directly to your home; you must have a Form VAT 407 certified by customs, police, or a notary public when you get home and then sent back to the store, which will refund your money. For inquiries, call the local Customs & Excise office listed in the London telephone directory.

Tipping

Many restaurants and large hotels (particularly those belonging to chains) will automatically add a 10%-15% service charge to your bill, so always check if tipping is necessary before you hand out any extra money.

Do not tip movie or theater ushers, elevator operators, or bar staff in pubs. Washroom attendants may display a saucer, in which it's reasonable to leave 20p or so.

Here's a guide for other tipping situations. Restaurants: 10%-20% of the check for full meals if service is not already included (if paying by credit card, check that tip has not already been included before you fill in the total on your credit slip), a small token if you're just having coffee or tea. Taxis: 10%-15%, or perhaps a little more for a short ride. Porters: 50p-£1 per bag. Doormen: £1 for hailing taxis or for carrying bags to check-in desk. Bellhops: £1 for carrying bags, £1 for room service. Hairdressers: 10%-15% of the bill, plus £1-£2 for the hair-washer.

U.S. and Canadian citizens need only a valid passport to enter Great Britain for stays of up to 90 days.

Passport Offices

The best time to apply for a passport, or to renew your old one, is in fall or winter. Before any trip, check your passport's expiration date, and, if necessary, renew it as soon as possible.

Australian Citizens

Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232; www.dfat.gov.au/passports).

Canadian Citizens

Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

New Zealand Citizens

New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 04/474-8000; 0800/225-050 in New Zealand for information on applications already submitted; www.passports.govt.nz).

U.K. Citizens

London Passport Office (PHONE: 0990/210-410; www.ukpa.gov.uk/ukpass.htm) for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport.

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service; travel.state.gov/passport_services.html).

U.S. Citizens

National Passport Information Center (PHONE: 900/225-5674; calls are 35¢ per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service).

Directory & Operator Information

For information anywhere in Britain, dial 192. For the operator, dial 100. For assistance with international calls, dial 155.

International Calls

The country code for the United States and Canada is 1; for Australia, 61; and for New Zealand, 64. The country code for Great Britain is 44. When dialing Great Britain from abroad, drop the initial 0 from the local area codes.

When calling from overseas to access a London telephone number, drop the 0 from the prefix and dial only 20 (or any other British area code) and then the eight-digit phone number. To give one example: Let's say you're calling Buckingham Palace - 020/7839-1377 (or, in the old system, 0171/839-1377) - from the United States to inquire about tours and hours. First, dial 011 (the international access code), then 44 (Great Britain's country code), then 20 (London's center city code), then the remainder of the telephone number, 7839-1377.

Long-Distance Calls

For long-distance calls within Britain, dial the area code (which begins with 01), followed by the number. The area-code prefix is only used when you are dialing from outside the city. In provincial areas, the dialing codes for nearby towns are often posted in the booth.

Access codes for long distance carriers are as follows:

AT&T Direct (in the United Kingdom, there are AT&T access numbers to dial the United States using three different phone types - Cable & Wireless: PHONE: 0500/890011; British Telecom: PHONE: 0800/890011; and AT&T: PHONE: 0800/0130011; PHONE: 800/435-0812 for other areas).

MCI WorldPhone (in the United Kingdom, dial PHONE: 0800/890222 for the United States via MCI; 800/444-4141 for other areas).

Sprint International Access (in the United Kingdom, there are Sprint access numbers to dial the U.S. using two different phone types - Cable & Wireless: PHONE: 0500/890877; and British Telecom: PHONE: 0800/890877; 800/877-4646 for other areas).

Public Phones

You don't have to dial London's central area code (020) if you are calling inside London itself - just the eight-digit telephone number.

There are three types of phones: those that accept (a) only coins, (b) only British Telecom (BT) phone cards, or (c) BT phone cards and credit cards.

The coin-operated phones are of the push-button variety; the workings of coin-operated telephones vary, but there are usually instructions on each unit. Most take 10p, 20p, 50p, and £1 coins. Insert the coins before dialing (minimum charge is 10p). If you hear a repeated single tone after dialing, the line is busy; a continual tone means the number is unobtainable (or that you have dialed the wrong - or no - prefix). The indicator panel shows you how much money is left; add more whenever you like. If there is no answer, replace the receiver and your money will be returned.

All calls are charged according to the time of day. Standard rate is weekdays 8 AM-6 PM; cheap rate is weekdays 6 PM-8 AM and all day on weekends, when it's even cheaper. A local call before 6 PM costs 15p for three minutes; this doubles to 30p for the same from a pay phone. A daytime call to the United States will cost 24p a minute on a regular phone (weekends are cheaper), 80p on a pay phone.

Public card phones operate with special cards that you can buy from post offices or newsstands. They are ideal for longer calls; are composed of units of 10p; and come in values of £3, £5, £10, and more. To use a card phone, lift the receiver, insert your card, and dial the number. An indicator panel shows the number of units used. At the end of your call, the card will be returned. Where credit cards are taken, slide the card through, as indicated.

The London Tourist Board's Visitorcall phone guide to London gives information about events, theater, museums, transport, shopping, and restaurants. There is a separate phone number for regular updates on what's happening this week. There is also a faxback service, enabling you to have the major events calendar faxed to you. Just dial the number and press start/receive after the tone; after a short pause the pages will process through. Visitorcall charges start at 60p per minute at all times, plus any hotel/pay-phone surcharge. Note that this service is accessible only in the U.K.

Tourist Offices

In London

British Tourist Authority (Thames Tower, Black's Rd., London W6 9EL, PHONE: 020/8846-9000).

In the U.S.

British Tourist Authority (BTA; 551 5th Ave., 7th floor, New York, NY 10176, PHONE: 212/986-2200 or 800/462-2748; 625 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1510, Chicago, IL 60611, PHONE: 800/462-2748 [personal callers only]).

In Canada

British Tourist Authority (5915 Airport Rd., Suite 120, Mississauga, Ontario L4V 1T1, PHONE: 905/405-1840 or 800/847-4885).

Weather Chart

London's weather has always been contrary, and in recent years it has proved red-hot and cool by turns. It is virtually impossible to forecast what the pattern might be, but you can be fairly certain that it will not be what you expect. The main feature of the British weather is that it is generally mild - with some savage exceptions, especially in summer. It is also fairly damp - though even that has been changing in recent years, with the odd bout of drought. The following list includes the average daily maximum and minimum temperatures for London.

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for London:

January 36-43°F (2-6°C); February 36-44°F (2-7°C); March 38-50°F (3-10°C); April 42-56°F (6-13°C); May 47-62°F (8-17°C); June 53-69°F (12-20°C); July 56-71°F (14-22°C); August 56-71°F (13-21°C); September 52-65°F (11-19°C); October 46-58°F (8-14°C); November 42-50°F (5-10°C); December 38-45°F (4-7°C).

Holidays

June 3rd and June 4th of 2002 are public holidays for celebrating the Queen's Golden Jubilee. Standard holidays include: New Year's Day, Good Friday, Easter Monday, May Day (first Monday in May), spring and summer bank holidays (last Monday in May and August, respectively), Christmas, and Boxing Day (day after Christmas). On Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve some shops, restaurants, and businesses close early. Some museums and tourist attractions are also closed then. If you want to book a hotel room during this period, make sure you do it well in advance, and check to see whether the hotel restaurant will be open.

The overground rail system is a network that connects outlying districts and suburbs to the center. Prices are comparable to the Underground, and you can easily transfer between the Underground and other connecting rail lines at many tube stations. Some passes are good for both the Underground and the rail system, so check at the point of purchase.

If you want to see the city, buses crisscross all over town. Their routes are more complicated than the tube, but by reading the route posted on the main bus stop and watching the route on the front of the bus, you won't go far wrong. Bus travel prices are cheaper than the tube the farther you travel, but be prepared to get stuck in traffic, even though designated lanes for buses and taxis should speed up the journey. Services are frequent, but if you become frustrated and flag down a taxi, the fare can clock up to three times the price of a similar bus fare for the same distance. If you're traveling with several people, however, riding in a taxi is relatively inexpensive and is more comfortable and convenient.

Central London and its surrounding districts are divided into 32 boroughs - 33, counting the City of London. More useful for finding your way around, however, are the subdivisions of London into postal districts. The first one or two letters give the location: N means north, NW means northwest, etc. Don't expect the numbering to be logical, however. You won't, for example, find W2 next to W3. The general rule is that the lower numbers, such as W1 or SW1, are closest to the city center.

Night Buses, denoted by the prefix "N" to their route numbers, run from 11 PM to 5 AM on a more restricted route than day buses. Fares are slightly higher, and Travelcard passes are not accepted. Avoid sitting alone on the top deck of a Night Bus; it gives a mugger an ideal opportunity.

All journeys within the central zone are £1, and all others outside are 70p. Travel from the outer to the central zone costs £1. If you plan to make a number of journeys in one day, consider buying a discount pass good for both tube and bus travel. Traveling without a valid ticket makes you liable for a fine (£10). Buses are supposed to swing by every five or six minutes, but, in reality, you may wait 15 minutes or more.

Payment is made to the driver as you enter (exact change is best so as to avoid incurring the driver's wrath). On some of the old buses, a conductor issues you a ticket from a grinder-like contraption strapped to his or her front.

For more bus information, contact LT Travel Information (PHONE: 020/7222-1234).

There is a no-smoking policy on all buses.

Gasoline (petrol) is sold in liters and is increasingly expensive. Unleaded petrol is predominant, denoted by green pump lines. Premium and Super Premium are the two varieties, and most cars run on regular premium. Supermarket pumps usually offer the best value, although they are often on the edge of the central city. You won't find many service stations in the center of town; these are generally on main roads outside the center of town. Service is self-serve, except in small villages, and these gas stations are likely to be closed on Sundays and late evening. Most accept major credit cards.

It is best to believe that you can park nowhere in London except at a meter, in a garage, or where you are sure there are no lines or signs; otherwise, you run the risk of a towing cost of about £100 or a wheel clamp, which costs about the same, since you pay to have the clamp removed plus the cost of the one or two tickets you'll have earned first. Restrictions are indicated by the No Waiting parking signpost on the sidewalk (these restrictions vary from street to street), and restricted areas include single yellow lines or double yellow lines. Parking at a bus stop or in a red-lined bus lane is also restricted. It is illegal to park on the sidewalk, across entrances, or on white zigzag lines approaching a pedestrian crossing.

Meters have an insatiable hunger in the inner city - a 20p coin buys just six minutes - and some will only permit a two-hour stay, with no return to top up. Meters take 10p, 20p, 50p, and £1 coins. In the evening, after restrictions end, meter bays are free. Daytime, take advantage of the many N.C.P. parking lots in the center of town, which are often better value (about £2.50-£3 per hour, up to 8 hours). A London street map should have the parking lots marked. The London Parking Guide (£4.99, Two Heads Publishing) provides indispensable advice.

Car Rentals

Rental rates in London vary widely and are expensive, beginning at £50 ($80) a day and £200 ($320) a week for a small economy car (such as a sub-compact General Motors Vauxhall, Corsa, or Renault Clio), usually with manual transmission. Air-conditioning and unlimited mileage generally come with the larger-size automatic cars.

At Home

Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom).

Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand).

Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom).

Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; 02/9223-1444 in Australia).

Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia).

National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom).

In London

Dimple Car Hire (Poplar Pl., London W2 4AS, PHONE: 020/7243-4400).

Enterprise (466-480 Edgware Rd., London W2 1EL, PHONE: 020/7723-4800).

Europcar (30 Woburn Pl., London WC1H 0JR, PHONE: 020/7255-2339).

Requirements

In London your own driver's license is acceptable (as long as you are over 23 years old, with no endorsements or driving convictions). An International Driver's Permit is a good idea; it's available from the American or Canadian Automobile Association and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. International permits are universally recognized, and having one may save you a problem with local authorities.

Rules of the Road

If you must risk life and limb and drive in London, note that the speed limit is 30 mph in the royal parks, as well as in all streets - unless you see the large 40 mph signs (and small repeater signs attached to lampposts) found only in the suburbs. Other basic rules: pedestrians have right-of-way on "zebra" crossings (black and white stripes that stretch across the street between two Belisha beacons - orange-flashing globe lights on posts) and it is illegal to pass another vehicle at a zebra crossing. At other crossings pedestrians must yield to traffic, but they do have right-of-way over traffic turning left at controlled crossings - if they have the nerve.

Traffic lights sometimes have arrows directing left or right turns; try to catch a glimpse of the road markings in time, and don't get into the turn lane if you mean to go straight ahead. A right turn is not permitted on a red light. On designated bus lanes a sign at the beginning and end gives the time restrictions for use - usually during peak hours - if you are caught, you could be fined. The use of horns is prohibited between 11:30 PM and 7 AM. Seat belts are to be worn by law in the front and the back seats. Drunk-driving laws are strictly enforced and it is far safer to avoid alcohol altogether. The legal limit is 80 milligrams of alcohol, which roughly translated means two units of alcohol - two glasses of wine, one pint of beer, or one glass of whiskey.

Fares start at £1.40 and increase by units of 20p per 281 yards or 55.5 seconds until the fare exceeds £8.60. After that, it's 20p for each 188 yards or 37 seconds. A 60p surcharge is added on weekday nights 8-midnight and until 8 PM on Saturday. Over Christmas and on New Year's Eve, it rises to £2 - and there's 40p extra for each additional passenger. Tips are extra, usually 10%-15% per ride.

Some lines have branches (Central, District, Northern, Metropolitan, and Piccadilly), so be sure to note which branch is needed for your particular destination. Electronic platform signs tell you the final stop and route of the next train and how many minutes you'll have to wait for the train to arrive. There are two recent developments: Jubilee Line has a state-of-the-art extension, opened on the eve of the millennium, connecting Canary Wharf to the Millennium Dome. The zippy Docklands Light Railway runs through the modern Docklands with a new extension to the Cutty Sark and maritime Greenwich.

London is divided into six concentric zones (ask at Underground ticket booths for a map and booklet, which give details of the ticket options), so make sure to buy a ticket for the correct zone or you may be liable for an on-the-spot fine.

You can buy a single or return ticket, the equivalent of a one-way and a round-trip, for travel anytime on the day of issue. Singles vary in price from £1.40 to £3.40. If you are planning several trips in one day, then consider a Travelcard, which is good for unrestricted travel on both tube and bus and some overground railways; these are valid weekdays after 9:30 AM, weekends, and on all public holidays, but cannot be used on airbuses, Night Buses, or for certain special services. Other options are: One Day Travelcard (£3.80-£4.50); Weekend Travelcards, for the two days of the weekend and on any two consecutive days during public holidays (£5.70-£6.70); Family Travelcards, which are one-day tickets for one or two adults with one to four children (£3-£3.60 with one child, additional children cost 60p each); or the Carnet, a book of 10 single tickets valid for central Zone 1 (£10) to use anytime over a year. The Visitor's Travelcard may be bought in the United States and Canada for three, four, and seven days' travel; it is the same as the LT (London Transport) Card and has a booklet of discount vouchers to London attractions. In the United States, the Visitor's Travelcard costs $25, $32, and $49, respectively; in Canada, C$29, C$36, and C$55, respectively. Apply to travel agents or, in the United States, to BritRail Travel International (1500 Broadway, New York, NY 10036, PHONE: 212/382-3737).

Trains begin running just after 5 AM Monday-Saturday; the last services leave central London between midnight and 12:30 AM. On Sunday, trains start two hours later and finish about an hour earlier. Frequency of trains depends on the route and the time of day, but normally you should not have to wait more than 10 minutes in central areas.

There are LT Travel Information Centres at the following tube stations: Euston, Hammersmith, King's Cross, Liverpool Street, Oxford Circus, Piccadilly Circus, St. James's Park, and Victoria, open 7:15 AM-10 PM; and at Heathrow (in Terminals 1, 2 and 4), open 6 AM-3 PM. For travelers with disabilities, get the free leaflet, "Access to the Underground" (PHONE: 020/7918-3312). For more information, contact London Transport (PHONE: 020/7222-1234, www.londontransport.co.uk).